Applying the caulk was a case of squiring a bead as far as the arm could reach then smoothing/spreading it with an old blister packet from a pack of screws. That worked really well, was cheap and disposable. On the Dynatron website it's mentioned that the caulk can be put on with a brush. That would be the end of the brush though.
Aside from the very back seam, the only place now that water could be coming in would be the previous seam. That looked OK on the last visit to the roof. It's unlikely to be seepage from the lights as when my hand was up inside the roof cavity, the damp was above the lights. Similarly the rivets at the backs of the solar panels seem pretty leak-proof. It is now a case of waiting for the next rainstorm.
While the caulk gun was out, I switched caulk tubes and completed caulking around the wooden panel in the bedroom above the bed. That is now ready for paint. One day I'll get to that. I probably need to touch up the whole bedroom. That was painted in haste and not very well.
Speaking of other things, the horn button and horn relay seem to work. When the horn was connected to the horn button and the engine was off, the horn was almost imperceptible. I'd assumed that the horn relay was bad. Wiring the horn back to the hillbilly wire had the same result. When the engine was on, the hillbilly horn wire made the horn sound loudly. I suspect that the same result will happen when the original horn wire and button is used. That makes me suspect the hillbillies couldn't hear the horn with the engine off and just rewired it.
A lot of people rush in to do things without thinking and without questioning why things are as they are. A very popular thing is to remove the vent from the roof that keeps the insulation dry. Not smart! The horn looks like another example. I could go on about masks and the Covid virus too. People whining about and refusing to wear masks while claiming Covid is non-existent without realizing a mask is a sensible backup should their opinion be wrong and scientific evidence be right.
So, the back seam is done. The horn will probably be working next time I work on the bus. If the horn button works then the hillbilly wire might as well be removed. It would be entertaining to rig it to a train horn but extra loud horns are actually illegal. An entertaining idea but not worth pursing. There is no reason as far as I can tell to have an extra wire in the engine bay so I might as well retire it.
When running the engine the other day, the Hydromax kept running. When the engine was off, it only ran when I put my foot on the brake. Having researched hydraulic brake boosters there are likely two solutions. Either it is the air in the back brake line or it is the pressure switch at the top of the brake booster. The latter is the most likely.
Things remaining to be done....
- Back brake lines
- Switching the horn over
- Reworking the right wiper mechanism
- Testing the new roof vent and putting a hood over it if needed
- Removing the buzzer from the console
- Small internal electrical fixes
- Bars over the windows. Measuring, it seems 3 bars will be sufficient though it would be possible also to use a perforated sheet. Bars look more prison like, however.
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